Totsuka-shuku: 5th station of Tokaido

The thought of walking through Edo (old name for Tokyo), the city I work in every day, did not feel too attractive at first, so I decided to take the JR Tokaido train to outside of the metropolitan area.  For that reason only, my walk started at Totsuka the 5th of the 53 stations located between Edo (Tokyo) and Kyo (Kyoto).

Here, I took my first step on the Tokaido Highway.  The pavements and buildings are new, but this surely was the road people walked 400 years ago, when Ieyasu Tokugawa decided to build a robust logistics system that spans across Japan.  Tokaido being the busiest among the 5 Highways he built.

The first place I visited by was the Seigen-in Temple.  This temple is the place where Omannokata, the famous mistress of Ieyasu Tokugawa, was cremated.

This monument is built at the top of the hill behind the temple.  At the foot of the hill are several monuments with famous poetry written on them - one of them being the poetry by the famous poet Matsuo Basho.  It is difficult to imagine that such icons of Japanese history has left foot steps that I can visit and see in this modern world - the Japanese history still lives today.

I return to the Tokaido Highway, and with the guidebook in one hand, Google Maps on the other, look for monuments that mark where the Main Lodging was.  

This is what the monument looks like.  This place used to be the Uchida Honjin, where only very high ranking people can stay.  It was said that, when important people lodged here, the place was furnished with curtains that has the family symbol, so everybody knew who was staying in town.  Well, but everything is gone now, so I cannot really imagine what it was like 400 years ago.

As I walk down the road, I passed Sawabe Honjin (2nd main lodging), Yasaka Shrine, Tomitsuka Temple and there was supposed to be Mitsuke-ato (edge of the shuku or station town), but being a novice Tokaido traveller, I couldn't find it.

After I left Totsuka-shuku, there was 1 more interesting sight.  The Ichirizuka which stands 1ri of approx. 4km apart and marks the distance from Edo (Tokyo).

Nothing here but a sign - but by this time my back was so sore from carrying a load of 10kg, that I knew what the people 400 years ago did here - REST!

Long time ago, there were pine tress lining the Tokaido Highway, so people enjoyed the shade as they walked to and from Kyo.  But today, most of the trees were cut down, so I have the sun shining down on me.  By then I have learned the lesson.

DON'T CARRY TOO MUCH STUFF WITH YOU WHEN YOU TRAVEL ON FOOT.

Very basic, but very easily forgotten rule #1.